Raspberries (Rubus idaeus) are one of the most rewarding cane fruits to grow in your garden. Their juicy dark pink berries and fuss-free growth raspberries provide an abundant harvest with minimal effort. They are the perfect soft fruit for beginner gardeners to grow even in smaller gardens. This guide will show you how to grow raspberries and pick the best species for fruits year after year, even in small or partially shaded gardens.
I love growing raspberries as these perennial fruit bushes come back year after year and don't require massive space in your garden like other fruits or vegetables. Making raspberries a very versatile and low-fuss fruit bush to grow. However, to get the best out of your raspberry plants, it’s essential to understand the differences between summer and autumn fruiting varieties and how to plant, care for, and prune them effectively.
Grab your trowel and let me, the Garden Ninja, explain how to plant, harvest and prune raspberries!
Raspberries are the quintessential summer fruit and are often overlooked in the hunt for strawberries. However, I believe that raspberries are much better value than growing strawberries as you get far more fruit, and the bushes themselves can lend structure to your flower borders and raised beds.
Before you start planting, it’s essential to know whether you’re growing summer-fruiting or autumn-fruiting raspberries, as they have different growth habits and pruning needs. This is what separates the beginners from the intermediates. Autumn fruiting raspberries are the ultimate beginner fruit bush as you simply cut them back down to the ground after the harvest, whereas summer fruiting needs a bit more of a selective prune.
i) Malling Jewel
A reliable variety with a delicious flavour and lots of berries. An early raspberry crop.
ii) Malling Minerva
A compact, spineless plant that produces medium to large fruits in early summer. A heavy cropping variety with good colour, flavour, and shelf life.
iii) Willamette
A striking variety that produces high yields of plump, tart berries. Easy to care for all year round and ideal for growing in wildlife and kitchen gardens.
iv) Glen Prosen
A firm favourite with a long harvest season from late June to early October. The fruit quality is good, and it parts readily from the stem, making picking fuss-free and preventing super sticky fingers! It also stores as jam and freezes very well.
v) Glen Moy
An early fruiting variety with large conical fruits, heavy cropping, and good flavour. One of Garden Ninja's favourites for jam-making!
vi) Malling Promise
An early variety with large bright red fruits, heavy cropping, and vigorous growth. Good for poor or rocky soil.
i) Autumn Bliss
A heavy cropping variety with short, sturdy canes that produce high-quality berries from August to late September. It's resistant to aphids.
ii) Imara
An early variety that starts fruiting at the end of July and produces large, well-coloured fruit that store very well, unlike softer varieties, meaning more time to eat them rather than rushing your raspberry harvest.
iii) All Gold
This compact variety is good for growing in smaller spaces, especially balcony gardens or small urban spaces. Its bright yellow or gold colouration is unusual and a great talking point for neighbours or allotment friends!
iv) Autumn Treasure
This compact variety is good for growing in smaller spaces. It's similar to 'All Gold' but with a rich ruby red colour. These fruits ripen from August to September, making them a great late-harvest raspberry.
v) Heritage
It's a traditional autumnal raspberry variety that's very productive.
vii) Caroline
It's a classic autumn raspberry-bearing variety that's very productive, so get ready to either have it frequently, make jam or freeze the fruit!
Raspberries are one of the easiest plants to grow because they place little demands on the gardener regarding soil type or sunlight levels. In full sun and rich soil, you'll get more growth and, therefore, more fruits; however, in shadier, poorer soil, they will still grow, albeit not as vigorously!
The best time to plant them is as bare-root raspberries in late autumn to early spring (November to March) while they are dormant.
Bareroots look like leafless Twiggs with damp roots at the bottom, and this is because they are lifted while dormant to be sold and replanted before the following spring.
Potted raspberry plants can be planted at any time of year and are often easier for new gardeners as you plant them when they are in leaf so that you can see the plant. However, they require far more watering than bare roots and can cause you a headache if you're planting them in full sun. Often, planting potted raspberries means you miss out on year one's fruit as they establish, whereas bare root nearly always fruits the following summer from planting.
Raspberries thrive in full sun but can tolerate partial shade. The more sun, the quicker they flower, fruit and ripen. But in partial or dappled shade, you can still grow sweet raspberries. In my experience, partial shade means they are less demanding in terms of watering, and you can control the harvest a bit more.
Again, raspberries are not picky about the right soil. Ideally, well-drained, rich in organic matter, and slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.5) is their soil 'happy place,' but I've also had great success growing raspberries in heavy clay soil!
Whilst raspberries will tolerate and sometimes thrive in poor soil, if you have really thin, rocky new build garden soil, you should think about improving it. Dig in a generous amount of peat-free compost or well-rotted manure.
These organic materials are like a feast for your soil, improving its texture, drainage, and, importantly, nutrient content. Don’t rush this step—take your time to really work it into the soil, making sure it’s well-mixed even leaving it for a few weeks to aerate the soil before planting your raspberries. Your plants will thank you!
Raspberries love to be planted in a trench 30cm deep if you’re planting bare-root raspberry plants, especially if planting more than one raspberry bush. Bare-root plants, as their name suggests, don’t come with soil around their roots, so they need a bit of extra attention. Use a shovel to dig a trench that’s one spade depth of 30cm to allow the roots to spread out comfortably. The trench should be wide enough so the roots don’t get cramped, giving them plenty of room to stretch and grow strong. If you’re planting multiple plants, make sure the trenches are spaced far enough apart to avoid overcrowding.
Position each plant carefully, ensuring that the base of the stems sits just above the soil level, with the crown of the roots covered by the soil. Planting too deep can suffocate the plant and cause the main stem to rot. Conversely, planting too shallow might expose the roots, which will cause them to dry out and wilt. Take a moment to double-check each plant's position before covering them with soil.
Space raspberries at least 80cm apart as they do out on a lot of growth each year!
Once the plants are in the ground, don’t forget to water them thoroughly. Give each plant a good soak right after planting. This helps settle the soil around the roots and ensures they have enough moisture to get started. Be sure to water deeply so the roots have access to moisture at all levels. A well-watered plant is a happy plant!
Finally, it's time to apply mulch. Mulch is your garden’s protective blanket, keeping the soil moist and temperature-regulated. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of your plants, making sure to cover the soil but keep the mulch away from the plant stems. This will help prevent weeds from taking root and give your plants a much-needed break from the heat or cold. Plus, as the mulch breaks down, it’ll add even more nutrients back into the soil, reducing the need for any additional plant feed for your raspberries.
Raspberries need very little care apart from the odd liquid feed and most importantly staking as they can quickly grow too tall to support the fruit without some additional care. I use bamboo canes and then jute twice to create a perimeter around my raspberries that works well to allow them to rest against the string but without trying each stem in which is time consuming and can lead to the stems getting crushed as they expand.
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist, especially during flowering and fruiting.
Feeding: Apply a general-purpose fertilizer in early spring and a potassium-rich feed (like comfrey tea) during fruiting. I've written extensively about plant feed and understanding the NPK value of all fertilizers for beginners or you can watch my guide below!
Mulching: A thick mulch of compost or well-rotted manure will help maintain soil fertility. It also keeps moisture in the soil during heatwaves and can prevent your raspberries from suddenly wilting due to heat stress so it well worth while Ninjas!
Supporting Canes: Summer-fruiting varieties require support—tie canes loosely to a trellis or wires. Use strong bamboo canes or metal supports, ensure they are pushed at least 8-10inch into the soil to take the weight of a frutiing raspberry bush as they can get quite heavy!
When it comes to harvesting raspberries, timing and technique are everything. These sweet little gems are at their peak when they come away from the plant with a gentle tug. Unlike some fruits that you need to force off the vine, raspberries should practically fall into your hand when they’re ripe.
Give the fruit a little nudge and, if it slides off effortlessly, it’s ready to go. If you’re pulling too hard and it resists, the fruit might still need a little more time to ripen. Patience is key—resist the urge to pick too early, as they’ll continue to sweeten on the plant and give you a better harvest.
Picking regularly is crucial if you want to maximize your raspberry bounty. By harvesting every couple of days during the peak season, you not only get fresh fruit but also encourage the plant to keep producing. Raspberries are indeterminate, meaning they’ll keep fruiting as long as they’re given the chance.
The more you pick, the more energy the plant devotes to producing new berries. This ensures that your patch will keep delivering fresh fruit over a longer period. Be diligent with your picking, even if you don't have much time—it's worth it in the long run for a continuous harvest.
Raspberries are delicate creatures. Handle them with the utmost care, as they bruise easily and don’t take kindly to rough handling. As you pluck the fruit, gently support it in your hand rather than squeezing or pinching.
It’s best to pick raspberries into shallow containers to avoid them being squashed under their own weight. You’ll want to ensure the berries don’t become a mushy mess before you even get them inside. If you’re harvesting in large quantities, consider using a small basket or bucket with a soft liner to protect them from damage during transport.
For the best flavor and the longest shelf life, the timing of your harvest matters. The early morning hours, when the temperature is cooler, are the perfect time to gather your raspberries. This is when the sugar content is at its peak, and the berries are firm, cool, and bursting with flavor. Not only will they taste better, but they’ll also last longer, as they’ve not yet been exposed to the heat of the day.
In the heat of midday, berries can soften more quickly, and their flavor can begin to degrade. Harvesting in the morning helps you avoid that and ensures your berries stay fresh longer once they’re picked.
Once you’ve harvested your raspberries, don’t leave them sitting around for too long. If you don’t plan to eat them immediately, keep them cool and store them in a shallow container in the fridge.
Avoid washing them until you’re ready to eat them, as moisture can cause them to break down more quickly. And if you find you have an overwhelming amount, consider freezing them for later use. Just be sure to spread them out in a single layer on a baking sheet before freezing so they don’t stick together.
Keep an eye on the weather forecast. After a rainstorm, raspberries can swell and become overripe quickly, so it’s often a good idea to pick them just before the rain hits. This way, you prevent the fruit from becoming waterlogged and prone to rot. Keep your harvesting routine consistent, and before you know it, you'll be reaping the sweet rewards of your hard work.
Pruning is crucial for maintaining healthy, productive raspberry plants. Every year your raspberries need some form of pruning, whether that's removing this years fruiting canes or cutting the entire rasp[berry bush back to the gound. If you don't prune you'l end up with less fruit each year, a congested bush that is going to be a vector for diseases and pests! The good news is pruning is super easy, when you know how.
The method varies depending on whether you are growing summer or autumn varieties.
Whilst raspberries are easy to grow and will fruit quite happily with minimal fussing over a few years crowded raspberry bushes or raspberries that haven't been pruned may run into a few pests or diseases. If your raspberries are struggling then I've listed the most common diseases and pests along with some tips to prevent or treat them organically!
One of the most notorious diseases that can plague raspberries is botrytis, also known as gray mold. This fungus thrives in wet, humid conditions, and you’ll often spot it on rotting fruits, leaves, and stems. It’s especially prevalent in late spring and early summer. The affected areas will show a grayish, fuzzy mold. To prevent or manage botrytis, ensure good air circulation by properly spacing out your plants and regularly pruning dead or infected growth. If you notice mold, remove the affected fruit and apply a fungicide specifically designed for botrytis control. Be sure to choose an organic fungicide if you prefer to keep things natural.
Rust is another common issue for raspberry plants, and it’s easy to spot thanks to the orange or yellowish spots that appear on the leaves. In severe cases, this disease can cause the death of the plant. Rust thrives in humid environments and spreads quickly, so early intervention is key. Prune away any infected canes and remove fallen leaves to stop the spores from spreading. Applying a copper-based fungicide can help keep rust under control. Make sure to clean up plant debris in the fall to prevent reinfection the following season.
The raspberry beetle is a particularly sneaky pest that targets both the fruit and the stems of the plant. These beetles often feed on the developing fruit, leaving deformities behind and laying larvae that burrow into the berries. The best way to combat raspberry beetles is through early detection—regularly check your berries and remove any damaged or infested fruit. You can also use pheromone traps to attract and capture the beetles, preventing them from reaching your plants. If the infestation is severe, I'd look towards encouraging more wildlife to your garden to help predate the beetles such as as a water feature or encouraging birds.
Raspberry aphids are tiny, sap-sucking insects that weaken plants by draining their energy. You’ll often find them on the underside of the leaves, where they can cause yellowing, stunted growth, and even spread viral diseases. If you spot aphids, use a strong stream of water to blast them off the plants. For larger infestations, consider encouraging beneficial insects like ladybugs or lacewing larvae, which will feast on the aphids and help bring their numbers down naturally.
Cane blight is a fungal infection that affects the canes of raspberry plants, causing them to die back and preventing the plant from producing new growth. Infected canes often turn dark or black and can lead to wilting. If you suspect cane blight, prune out any infected canes immediately, cutting them back to healthy tissue. Make sure to dispose of the infected material in the household garden waste bin and not in the compost, as the fungus can spread. Regular garden maintenance, including cleaning up fallen plant debris, will help minimize the risk of cane blight taking hold.
Spider mites are tiny pests that are particularly fond of the underside of raspberry leaves. These sap-suckers leave behind stippled, yellowed leaves and fine webbing. They can be tricky to spot, but their presence becomes more obvious as the webbing increases. To treat a spider mite infestation, spray the plants with a strong stream of water to dislodge the mites. Keeping the plants well-watered and maintaining good plant hygiene will help discourage spider mites from settling in.
Verticillium wilt is a soil-borne fungal disease that attacks the vascular system of raspberry plants, causing them to wilt, yellow, and die back. Once Verticillium is present in the soil, it’s challenging to eradicate. The best preventive measure is to avoid planting raspberries in soil where members of the nightshade family (like tomatoes or peppers) have been grown recently, as they can harbor the fungus. If you suspect Verticillium wilt, remove the infected plants promptly and avoid planting raspberries in the same area for at least three years.
While diseases and pests can be a challenge for raspberry growers, the best defense is prevention. By ensuring your plants are spaced out properly, maintaining good garden hygiene, and acting quickly when issues arise, you can minimize the impact of pests and diseases. Organic treatments and regular monitoring will help you maintain a healthy, thriving raspberry patch, ensuring that you’ll enjoy a bountiful harvest season after season.
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Growing raspberries is a fantastic way to enjoy fresh, homegrown fruit with minimal effort. Whether you opt for summer-fruiting or autumn-fruiting varieties, following the right planting, care, and pruning techniques will ensure a bountiful harvest year after year. With proper attention, your raspberry patch will flourish, providing you with delicious berries and an eye-catching garden feature.
Happy gardening!
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