Quote from Lee Garden Ninja on 7th June 2024, 11:23 am

Hi @nottinghamlaura

Mares tail (Equisetum arvense) can be a really problematic weed. It's been on earth for millennia and is pretty much indestructible, as you will be experiencing. The key to this weed and things like decking is to try to eliminate or reduce its vigor before any building work. It always finds a way through as you're experiencing!

Usually, I would advise either a weed burner or manual removal. I don't use weed killers or herbicides in my work due to their long-term health impacts on ecology.

https://youtu.be/4WIDSCJ4o6M

Sometimes, though, you have to bite the bullet. I'd advise that if the two organic methods above are not possible, you consider a weed killer used in a very controlled and considerate fashion.

With a mare tail, if you damage or crush parts of it first, then apply any weed killer, it will have a better chance of working. Less is more with chemical treatments, and they will take weeks before you see results, so use once and then be patient. 

• Glyphosate: Apply a systemic herbicide like glyphosate directly to the plant. It's more effective when applied to actively growing plants. Note that glyphosate can kill other plants it contacts, so use it carefully and never in high wind.
• Specialized Herbicides: Some herbicides are specifically designed to target tough weeds like mares' tails. Look for products containing active ingredients such as triclopyr or 2,4-D combined with glyphosate.
• Adjuvants: Use surfactants or adjuvants with herbicides to increase their effectiveness. These substances help the herbicide stick to and penetrate the waxy surface of mares tail.

1. Choose the Right Herbicide

• Selectivity: Use selective herbicides that target specific weeds while sparing desirable plants. For example, broadleaf herbicides target weeds like dandelions but do not affect grasses.
• Organic Options: Consider organic or less toxic herbicides like vinegar-based solutions or those containing fatty acids or salts.
• Low Persistence: Opt for herbicides with low persistence in the environment, which break down quickly and reduce long-term impact.

2. Correct Timing

• Seasonal Application: Apply herbicides during times when weeds are most vulnerable, usually in early spring or late fall. This reduces the need for multiple applications.
• Weather Conditions: Avoid applying herbicides before rain or during windy conditions. Rain can wash the chemicals into waterways, and wind can cause drift onto non-target plants and areas. Apply when you have at least 3 days of dry weather and no wind.
• Temperature: Apply herbicides during moderate temperatures, avoiding extremely hot or cold days to ensure effectiveness and minimize volatilization.

3. Proper Application Techniques

• Spot Treatment: Rather than broadcasting herbicide over a large area, use spot treatments to directly target weeds. This method uses less chemical and reduces exposure to non-target plants. Get up close to the plant, don't just spray randomly across patches of weeds. 
• Protective Barriers: Use physical barriers like cardboard or plastic shields to protect nearby plants during application.
• Appropriate Equipment: Use equipment like sprayers with adjustable nozzles to control the application rate and avoid over-spraying. Ensure sprayers are calibrated correctly.

4. Follow Label Instructions

• Dosage: Always follow the manufacturer's instructions regarding dosage and dilution. Over-application can increase environmental impact and harm non-target species.
• Application Methods: Adhere to recommended application methods, such as specific spraying techniques or mixing instructions.
• Safety Precautions: Wear protective clothing and equipment to prevent personal exposure and contamination.

5. Prevent Runoff and Drift

• Buffer Zones: Create buffer zones around water bodies, such as streams, ponds, and lakes, where herbicides are not applied. This reduces the risk of water contamination.
• Drift Control: Apply herbicides during calm weather and use drift control additives if necessary. Spray when wind speeds are low (less than 5 mph) to minimize drift.
• Soil Health: Maintain healthy soil with good structure to reduce runoff. Practices like mulching and maintaining ground cover help prevent soil erosion.

6. Disposal and Storage

• Proper Disposal: Dispose of herbicide containers and any unused product according to local regulations. Never pour herbicides down drains or into water bodies.
• Safe Storage: Store herbicides in a secure, cool, and dry location away from children, pets, and wildlife. Keep them in their original containers with labels intact.

I hope that helps and as I said in the introduction weed killers are a real last resort as they have huge ecological impacts on the environment so urge you only to use them as a last resort. I myself would simply pull them up from between the deck boards or remove some boards and then manually get rid of it!

All the best

Lee Garden Ninja

Quote from NottinghamLaura on 7th June 2024, 12:43 pm

Thanks for the very comprehensive reply. In an ideal world I'd have the decking and driveway taken up and membrane put down to help keep it at bay but I'm on maternity leave at the moment and have no disposable income. I share reticence about weedkiller as I have young children and a pet (as well as concern for the planet as a whole) but I think I may unfortunately have to resort to this option this time.

Do you have any views on spore stop products for efficiency preventing further spread?

Laura

Quote from Lee Garden Ninja on 8th June 2024, 9:53 am

Hi @nottinghamlaura

I wouldn't bother with mares tail spore-stop chemicals either. It's just another marketing ploy to get you to spend money. By the time you've applied it, you may as well have just cut the mares tails' heads off to stop the spores from being released. Understanding how mares tail reproduces may be helpful. 

Sporangia and Strobili

• • Mares tail produces spores in structures called sporangia, which are grouped together in cone-like structures known as strobili.
  • These strobili are typically found at the tips of fertile stems, which are usually brownish and leafless, differing from the green, photosynthetic sterile stems.

Spore Production and Release

• • In early spring, the fertile stems emerge and develop strobili.
  • Each strobilus contains numerous sporangia, which produce and release spores when mature.
  • The spores are tiny, lightweight, and can be dispersed by wind, water, or even animals.
  • Once the marestail turns brown, they are ready to release these, which is why it's imperative to cut them back at this stage or, even better, dig them up.

Germination and Gametophyte Stage

• • Once the spores land in a suitable environment, they germinate to form a small, green, heart-shaped structure called a gametophyte.
  • The gametophyte is an independent, photosynthetic organism that produces both male and female reproductive organs (antheridia and archegonia, respectively).

Fertilization

• • The antheridia release sperm, which swims through water to reach the archegonia and fertilize the eggs.
  • Fertilization requires a moist environment since the sperm need water to move.
  • After fertilization, the zygote develops into a new sporophyte, which is the familiar horsetail plant with stems and leaves.
  • This new plant will eventually produce its own fertile stems with strobili, continuing the cycle.

Key Points to Remember

• Spores, Not Seeds: Unlike many plants that reproduce with seeds, mares tail reproduces through spores.
• Dual Life Cycle: Horsetail has a dual life cycle involving a gametophyte stage (which produces gametes) and a sporophyte stage (which produces spores).
• Environmental Conditions: Moist environments are crucial for the fertilization process, as the sperm need water to swim to the eggs.

Avoid wasting money and simply cut the stems off when you see them to help reduce further spread.

Hope that helps.

Lee Garden Ninja