Adding a pond or water feature to your garden is one of the most beneficial landscaping projects you can undertake to help out Mother Nature and bring some peace to any garden. Who doesn't love the tranquillity of hearing moving water or watching newts, fish, birds and insects go about their daily lives using the pond as their one-stop shop?
Whether you envision a serene wildlife pond or a super modern decorative water feature, this one-stop beginnerβs guide to everything you need to know about creating a pond will walk you through the essential steps to build a pond, no matter what size garden you have!
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The first step before any digging, pond liners or building materials are bought is to work out the style of the pond, which is usually linked to its purpose. When discussing style in garden design, we refer to any garden feature's aesthetic as the way you want your garden to look as an overall theme or style.
With ponds, the style usually falls into two types: either informal or formal. This refers to whether the pond will look more naturalistic (informal) or prescribed form (formal).
Let's review an example of a formal pond, as shown below. Note the symmetry and clean balance of the pond using stone for a sharp geometric look. These types of ponds are found in formal gardens such as knot or parterre gardens. They are also found in very symmetrical modern designs.
In contrast, the informal pond below has asymmetry and a more naturalistic style with soft lines, gentle sloping edges and planting. You find these naturalistic ponds in informal garden designs or asymmetrical garden layouts where the gardens are more relaxed in their layout. Relaxed does not mean lazy garden design, though; formal and informal gardens take just as much garden design planning!
This then leads to the next consideration of do you want a wildlife pond (usually informal), ornamental pond (typically formal) or simply a water feature (such as a rill, pebble pool, or plug-in pond in a pot style). Answering this usually tells you whether you need to plan pond plants, fish, water pumps and filtration.
Whilst all ponds and water features benefit wildlife, the smaller the pond or water feature, the less benefit it will have and a higher chance of it looking a tad awkward in larger gardens. You also need to top the water up more frequently in summer. So consider the scale of the pond to be in keeping with the size of your garden.
If it looks too small, it will always feel awkward, too big, and it will dominate your garden space, which is why planning and drawing up your garden pond to scale on a piece of paper is a good idea. See a simple scaled informal wildlife pond design below.
This is often the step in building a pond that gets overlooked. Most beginner gardeners shove the pond or water feature into a back corner of the garden or slap it straight in the middle. Both of these can look awkward, imposing, or lacklustre. Careful consideration is needed to ensure your pond is in the best place to make sure you're happy with your view of it. A considered pond location or placement can also reduce maintenance if it's easy to access and away from hangingΒ treesΒ or fence panels and ensure that you get the most out of your water feature.
Once you have built a pond, they are a pain to relocate, so it's best to get the position of your pond in your garden right the first time! No one wants water feature regrets.
I would always advise that you site and position your garden pond based on the following checklist criteria:
When designing a pond, the intended purpose greatly influences its ideal depth to ensure it is suitable for fish and wildlife and to prevent it from freezing solid in the winter or evaporating into a puddle in the summer. Let me explain the ideal depth of a pond.
For wildlife ponds, a depth of 45-60 cm (18-24 inches) is recommended. This depth range is critical to help wildlife survive in your pond during the entire year, not just in summer!
I would always argue a 60cm pond depth is the real minimum to ensure everything living in the pond can happily survive the extremes of temperature. However, if you're pushed for depth, 45cm is the bare minimum depth a pond or water feature supporting life should be.
60cm or deeper provides a stable environment for various aquatic species, including amphibians like frogs, newts, and toads, aquatic insects and other microfauna.
A depth of at least 45 cm ensures that the pond can support plants of varying heights and growth habits, such as marginal plants along the edges and oxygenating plants at the base.
The depth of a pond can help prevent the pond from freezing completely during winter, allowing creatures to survive in the warmer water layers at the bottom. Ideally, a pond that's 60cm can survive even the most brutal of frosts here in the UK.
During hot summer months, the deeper water also provides a cooler refuge for aquatic life, ensuring a balanced ecosystem.
Shallower depths are suitable for decorative ponds, which are often designed for visual appeal rather than supporting fish or extensive wildlife. A depth of 15-30 cm (6-12 inches) can suffice if the focus is on aesthetics and supporting much smaller water plants. However, the limitations of shallower ponds include:
If your pond or water feature has fish, then even decorative ponds need deeper areas (at least 60 cm) to ensure fish safety during temperature extremes and allow them to retreat if the top of the pond freezes.
Shallower ponds are easier to maintain and may be more visually appealing in small gardens, but they may require more frequent water top-ups and care to manage algae growth. I recommend smaller gardens simply use pebble ponds or water features that recycle water from a closed reservoir to give the sound of moving water rather than trying to grow plants and keep fish alive in shallow water features.
In my experience, for urban gardens, the maximum depth of a pond is around 1.5m, which is only suitable for large fish like koi or huge ponds. Deeper ponds can be harder to clean, require more planning, and may increase safety concerns. Especially with children or if anyone, for whatever reason, falls in.
Unless youβre designing a natural swimming pool or a large ornamental pond, keeping within these ranges ensures a healthy, manageable, and wildlife-friendly water feature!
A marginal shelf is the secret weapon of any successful pond! Itβs that shallow ledge around the edge of your pond, and itβs an absolute game-changer. Why? Because it creates the perfect home for marginal plants like marsh marigolds and water irises, which look stunning and act as natural water filters.
The shelf provides a gradual transition between water and land, making it easier for wildlife like frogs, newts, and insects to move in and out of the pond. Plus, the plants on the shelf offer essential shelter and shade for aquatic life while softening the pond's edges for a more natural look. Without a marginal shelf, your pond might feel a little lifeless and miss out on the incredible biodiversity it could support. So, please donβt skip this essential feature, as itβs the key to a thriving, wildlife-friendly pond!
Before we go running for a spade to start digging over the garden, we need to carefully consider what kind of pond liner we are going to use. After all, the pond liner's job is to keep the water in the pond, stop leaks and provide a long-lasting barrier between the water and the ground or garden around it. The old adage of you get what you pay for comes into play when choosing a pond liner.
A lightweight, flexible, and budget-friendly pond liner option often chosen by beginner pond enthusiasts. This pond liner can be picked up from any garden centre or online and is usually sold by the meter in length. This pond liner is cheap and cheerful. Cost Β£2-Β£8 per mΒ².
Lifespan: 10-15 years with proper installation and maintenance.
Benefits of PVC Pond Liners:
Drawbacks of PVC Pond Liners:
The gold standard in pond liners is known for its premium quality and exceptional durability. I would always persuade even gardeners on a budget to splash out on butyl rubber pond liners if possible. This material can be ordered in custom shapes and sizes for the perfect fit, especially for garden rills or formal geometric water features! Costs Β£10-Β£15 per mΒ².
Lifespan: 30-50 years, making it the longest-lasting option.
Benefits of Butyl Rubber Pond Liners:
Drawbacks of Butyl Rubber Pond Liners:
Rigid, moulded preformed pond liners made of durable plastic or fibreglass, designed for small, easy-to-install ponds. This was one of the first pond liners I ever used as a child way back when! They allow you to create a water-tight pond really quickly without too much design consideration as they are performed in specific shapes. Costs Β£50-Β£500+ depending on size and material.
The difficulty is you have to dig the hole to the exact shape and size of the liner. Often, you need to dress the hole with sharp sand to get a decent snug fit.
Lifespan: 10-20 years, depending on material quality.
Benefits of Preformed Pond Liners:
Drawbacks of Preformed Pond Liners:
| Type | Lifespan | Cost (per mΒ²) | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| PVC | 10-15 years | Β£2-Β£5 | Budget-friendly, small ponds |
| EPDM Rubber | 20-30 years | Β£6-Β£12 | Wildlife/fish ponds, flexible designs |
| Butyl Rubber | 30-50 years | Β£10-Β£15 | High-end, long-term ponds |
| Preformed Liners | 10-20 years | Β£30-Β£300+ | Small decorative ponds |
Now for the hard work and fun part: digging out the pond. Unless you have a massive pond requiring a digger, most people will be digging the hole for the pond by hand.
The first tip is to take your time, and please don't underestimate how much effort you need to dig a pond manually. It always takes far longer than you imagine, so ensure you have a whole weekend or plenty of time.
Also, consider where all the soil you have dug out will go! Using tarps, plastic sheeting and containers to put the soil in is a good idea to stop spreading mud and muck around your garden.
Outline your pond shape using a garden hose, bamboo canes, string, or spray paint. I prefer the canes and string, as you can adjust them and then use a spray line to mark out your pond. This is the very first step in building a pond. Don't be surprised if you need to tweak the size or shape at this stage. Standing back or viewing the pond from the house or building will give you the edits you need to make so it's the perfect size and position.
When you're ready, remove either the turf with a half edger or start to dig the soil of the ponds on bare earth. I like to dig the outline first and lift the turf to see the overall shape and check it. I then dig out the pond, taking one or two spades out from each section and working around the pond evenly.
Don't try to dig to the ultimate depth on one side or one area and then carry on to the other side. It's too difficult and far easier to take off even amounts across the pond area and then dig additional layers until you reach the desired depth. Don't forget to create shelves for aquatic 'marginal' plants and to allow wildlife in and out of the wildlife pond easily.
With a plant of wood and a spirit level, ensure the edges are even to prevent water from overflowing from any one side. This is the step that's often missed by beginner gardeners digging ponds. A piece of wood from one side to the other and spirit level will show which side either needs to be raised or dug lower until the bubble on the spirit level rests in the middle.
At this stage, you must spend some time 'tidying' and 'cleaning' the base of the pond of rocks, roots, sharp edges or any debris that can puncture the pond liner. I also like to give my ponds a flat bottom because it allows any pond pumps or filters to sit evenly anywhere in the pond rather than right in the middle if the base is angled. This clever trick gives you the most flexibility with water circulation and placement of pond filters.
The next step is a clever hack that helps you avoid too many creases and issues in getting your flexible pond liner to fit the pond correctly. This step involves unwrapping your pond liner and leaving it in the sun or a warm room in your house to soften it. This enables you to flex and move it far more than a cold, rigid pond liner. Leave it out in the sun or unwrapped indoors for at least 1 hour to soften.
Whilst your pond liner is unwrapped and warming up, it's time to add the fleece or pond liner protector into your pond hole. This doesn't need warming up but will need very sharp scissors to cut to size so ensure you have these or a very sharp Stanley knife or folding blade knife on hand.
The fleece protects the liner and adds a more uniform insulated layer to the pond to protect the liner from weather fluctuations. The fleece is the white later in the example below.
Now for the fun bit, laying the, hopefully, warmed liner into the pond. Ensuring it fits smoothly into the hole, take your time to pay it out, and take your shoes off when walking into the pond so you don't damage it! Pull out any significant creases in the liner and ensure that it covers not just the hole but the excess, which then covers the top ground level of the pond.
DON'T CUT THE LINER YET. Wait until it's been filled with water as the weight of the water will draw in the liner and shorten the edges, if you cut too soon the liner can suddenly become to small for the pond!
Slowly fill the pond with a hose, adjusting the liner as needed to remove creases and ensure that it's taught when the water line starts to fill up. You may read about filling ponds with rain water, but this is usually not possible for larger ponds, so I use a hose and let the water acclimatise before adding fish, usually for around 4-6 weeks.
This removes chlorine and other chemicals from the water, allowing it to be neutralised. Once the water is 2 inches below the top level, turn off the hose and let the pond settle; check for an hour or so that there are no leaks or the water level doesn't start to drop before edging.
The last step is to finish the edges and cut the spare liner so it's all neat and tidy. You have a few options for point edges: the formal paving stones set on a mortar bed or the more naturalistic stone or rockery edge. You can also use large logs or run turf up to the edge to naturalise it. A word of design warning is to use a gradient of different stone and pebble sizes to avoid the 'Wilma Flintstone Necklace' look around the pond, which I always see and looks slightly naff.
Now that your pond is finished, it's time to consider adding pond plants for wildlife and interest, along with potential water pumps, filtration and possibly fish! Let's review these areas separately to help you get the best out of your new pond.
The pond must go through the nitrogen cycle, which typically takes 4-6 weeks. During this time, beneficial bacteria will establish themselves in the filter and pond's surfaces to break down harmful substances like ammonia and nitrites from fish waste.
After the cycling process is complete and the water parameters are stable, you can begin introducing fish gradually. Start with a few fish and monitor the water quality frequently (especially in the first few weeks). Adding too many fish too soon can overload the pond's filtration system and restart the cycling process, which can harm the fish.
If you have fish in your pond, you will need aquatic and pond plants to help keep it balanced. Let's now look at other pond features and aquatic plants.
Aquatic plants are the backbone of a thriving pond ecosystem, and incorporating a mix of oxygenators, marginals, and floaters will ensure your pond stays balanced. Oxygenators like hornwort work behind the scenes to keep your water clean and oxygen-rich, vital for fish and other aquatic life.
Marginals, such as irises, look stunning with their bold foliage and flowers but also help stabilize the pondβs edges and provide essential shelter for wildlife. Remember the shelf we discussed above? This is the place to home aquatic marginal ponds and help soften the edges of any pond, giving a much-needed shelter belt for wildlife.
Finally, floating aquatic plants like water lilies or water lettuce add that classic pond aesthetic while shading the water to prevent overheating and algae growth. Together, these plants can create a harmonious pond where wildlife thrives, and water quality remains clear.
If you've just built a pond and are wondering what the best beginner pond plants are, the list below shows my top ten fuss-free pond plants. Always check the label of each of these for their recommended depth, particularly with water lilies. In shallow ponds always look for dwarf varieties with a shallower depth, with marginals most plants will accommodate depth of 10-30cm.
Adding a waterfall or fountain to your pond is a brilliant way to inject movement and sound into your garden. The gentle trickle of water cascading down a waterfall or the rhythmic splash of a spouting fountain not only creates a sense of tranquillity but also helps aerate the water, keeping it fresh and healthy for pond life, especially when paired up with a filtration system.
This movement of water provides a much-needed sound barrier from noisy neighbours and can signal to guests in the garden that there is something to go and inspect! Itβs perfect for adding drama and visual interest while serving a functional purpose. Choose a design that complements your pond's style, whether a naturalistic rock cascade or a sleek, modern fountain. Even a simple water bowl can benefit from a solar fountain like the one below!
Pumps and Filters recirculate your pond water, ensuring movement while pond filters maintain clarity. This helps keep aquatic life healthy and happy and stops your pond from turning into a dark green algae-riddled soup. It also assists with oxygenating the water so fish, amphibians and water dwellers can breathe and thrive. Choosing the right combination of pond pump and filter can be daunting, but I will explain which pump and filter work best to ensure your pond stays fabulous throughout the seasons.
A pond pump keeps water circulating, preventing stagnation and encouraging oxygenation, essential for fish, plants, and beneficial bacteria. A filter works hand-in-hand with the pump to remove debris, waste, and harmful toxins, ensuring your pond remains crystal clear and balanced.
Together, a pump and filter create a healthy ecosystem, reducing algae growth, supporting wildlife, and enhancing the overall aesthetic of your pond. Once you have the balance right, keeping a pump and filtration system running from spring to autumn for 6 hours a day will keep your pond clean, reducing the maintenance you'll need to undertake.
There are three main types of pond filter to look at, but in all honesty, the best filters are a combination of biological, UV and a pump, which gets you the most coverage and means you only need one filter (usually submersible), which enables a set it and forget it approach.
The submersible filter I use in all my pond designs for most residential clients is the Oase Filtral UVC 3000, which will create up to 3000 litres of pond water. It also contains a pump, which cleans the water, treats algae, and then provides an outlet for a fountain or waterfall. A one-stop shop!
These filters use beneficial bacteria to break down harmful substances in the water, such as ammonia and nitrites, which are produced by fish waste and organic matter. They create a balanced ecosystem by converting toxic compounds into harmless nitrates, which plants can use. Biological filters are essential for ponds with fish or high levels of organic debris, as they focus on improving water quality over time rather than immediate clarity.
UV (ultraviolet) filters are designed to control algae by using UV light to destroy algae cells, preventing them from multiplying and causing green water. They work by passing water through a chamber containing a UV lamp, which sterilizes the algae without affecting beneficial bacteria. While UV filters are excellent for achieving clear water, they do not remove physical debris or toxins from the pond, which is why they are often coupled with a biological pond filter.
As the name suggests, these filters combine biological filtration with UV technology. They are highly effective for ponds with fish, improving water quality and clarity. Combination filters handle multiple aspects of pond maintenance in one unit, making them ideal for those seeking convenience and comprehensive filtration. Usually, they contain a pump, too, for either a fountain or a water feature.
To complicate things further, there are three main types of pond filter housing systems: pressurised, gravity-fed, and submersible.
I always use submersible filters for ease, which are the more modern types of filters. However, you may want to consider the old-school gravity filter or even the pressurised filter, which is slightly easier to access.
| Type | Best For | Advantages | Drawbacks |
| Pressurized | Fish ponds; medium-sized ponds | Compact; handles high waste loads; UV option | Requires regular cleaning; higher cost |
| Gravity | Large ponds; wildlife ponds | Efficient for large volumes; low maintenance | Requires space for installation and can look ugly. |
| In-Pond (Submersible) | Small to medium ponds; low fish density | Simple setup; affordable, one-stop-solution | Limited capacity; visible in the pond |
There are two main types of pond pumps to consider for 99% of ponds; a submersible pump like this Oase is the way to go, and usually, a decent submersible filter system like the ones above will have a water outlet for a pump and you don't need both unless running multiple waterfalls or fountains in your pond.
| Type | Best For | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Submersible | Small to medium ponds | Easy to install, discreet & affordable | May clog, less efficient for large ponds |
| External | Large ponds or waterfalls | Powerful, energy-efficient for big ponds | Higher initial cost, visible equipment |
To ensure your pump and filter are effective, youβll need to match their capacity to your pondβs size and needs. Every pump and filter on the market will have a volume of water that they are suitable for. Usually, these volumes are listed in the product name, such as Oase Aquarius Fountain Set Classic 2000. The 2000 refers to a maximum of 2000 litres per hour of flow when turned on.
Hereβs how to calculate the volume of your pond, which is where a scaled plan can really help:
Multiply the pondβs length (m), width (m), and average depth (m), then multiply by 1000 to get the volume in litres.
Example: 2m x 1.5m x 0.5m = 1.5mΒ³ x 1000 = 1500 liters. Then, choose a pond pump that meets the litre size of your pond.
Another top Garden Ninja tip is always to choose a pond pump that exceeds your pond's litreage. This is because, over time, debris and wear and tear will slow down your pump. Having a 3000-litre pump for a 2000-litre pond is better than a 2000-litre pump, which may drop to 1700 litre over a year or so. You can always turn down the flow of a pond pump, so a larger pump is a wiser choice.
Keeping your pond in tip-top shape doesnβt have to be a chore, especially if you've got a decent combination filter and you've positioned it correctly with the right depth. With a little know-how and regular care, you can maintain a thriving, crystal-clear pond thatβs the star of your garden. Here are Garden Ninjas' top pond maintenance tips to help you stay ahead of the game!
Remove fallen leaves, debris, and algae regularly using a pond net or skimmer. This prevents organic matter from decaying in the water, which can lead to poor water quality and algae blooms. A little weekly tidying goes a long way! But the trick is not to be too diligent with the cleaning, trying to remove everything; a bit of dead organic matter is beneficial in a pond, allowing whatever is living in there to thrive. Also, stirring up the water with nets can lead to cloudy water and disturb wildlife.
The new split-level pond above needs at least 3-6 weeks to settle and clarify before adding fish.
Just like herbaceous perennials and shrubs, aquatic pond plants will also need maintenance. Trim back overgrown aquatic plants to stop them from taking over the pond. Add oxygenating plants like hornwort and floating beauties like water lilies to keep the water balanced and looking lush. If your marginal plants start to fill out over the years, consider splitting them and dividing them like herbaceous perennials in the spring. Then, pot on with fresh aquatic compost and specialist pond plant containers.
Aquatic compost is specially designed for use in ponds and aquatic planting, making it significantly different from regular compost. The primary distinction lies in its low nutrient content. Unlike regular compost, which is rich in nutrients to promote plant growth in garden soil, aquatic compost has reduced levels of nitrogen and phosphorus. This is crucial for preventing algae blooms in ponds, as excessive nutrients in the water can lead to unwanted algae growth that harms aquatic ecosystems.
Another key difference is its composition. Aquatic compost is often heavier and more clay-based, which helps it stay submerged in water without floating away. This weight ensures that aquatic plants remain securely anchored in their baskets or pond beds, providing stability for their roots. In contrast, regular compost is light and crumbly, designed for aerating garden soil and supporting terrestrial plants, but it would quickly disperse in water.
Check water quality regularly, especially if you have fish. Test kits can help you monitor pH, ammonia, and nitrate levels. If things are out of balance, take action by adding beneficial bacteria or water conditioners.
Give your pump and filter a regular check-up! Clean out any debris, rinse filter sponges (in pond water, not tap water, to keep the beneficial bacteria!), and ensure everything runs smoothly. This ensures proper water circulation and filtration.
I clean my UV submersible filter once a month through the summer, and ensuring you clean the biological parts in a bucket of pond water (which you then throw away is key). IOt stops chlorinated water, killing off the necessary bacteria in your biological filter, then allows it to work.
Hot summer days can lead to evaporation, so keep an eye on water levels. To avoid stressing fish and plants, top up the pond with rainwater or dechlorinated tap water. It's better to fill buckets of tap water the day before and allow them to off gas overnight to reduce unbalancing the water levels and nitrates.
In spring, give the pond a deep clean if needed, and start up your pump and filter after winter. Use a pond cover net in autumn to stop leaves from clogging up. In winter, ensure part of the surface stays ice-free for oxygen exchange. Check all liners, pumps and pipes for leaks, cracks or damage.
A pond can be a stunning focal point in your garden, but itβs essential to prioritize safety, especially if children, pets, or wildlife are part of the equation. With a few thoughtful measures, you can create a safe, secure, and wildlife-friendly pond that gives you peace of mind without compromising on style or functionality.
The edges of your pond are where most accidents happen. Ensure you use slip-resistant materials like rough stone or textured paving around the pond to reduce the risk of slips and falls. For families with young children, consider installing a low boundary, like a decorative fence or dense planting, to act as a natural barrier. This can create an effective and attractive safety zone while still keeping your pond accessible for maintenance and enjoyment.
Installing a pond safety grille is a game-changer for ultimate peace of mind, especially in gardens with small children. These sturdy metal grids sit just below the water's surface, allowing plants and fish to thrive while preventing anyone from falling in. If a permanent grille isnβt your style, a strong pond net over the pond can also provide protection, although it requires regular maintenance to keep it taut and debris-free.
Designing your pond with safety in mind starts from the ground up. Incorporate gradual slopes and marginal shelves rather than steep sides, which can be dangerous if someone accidentally steps into the pond. These shelves also benefit wildlife, giving creatures like frogs and hedgehogs an easy way to climb in and out of the water, preventing them from getting trapped.
For family-friendly gardens, keep the pond shallow, especially near the edges. Depths of around 20-30 cm (8-12 inches) in marginal areas provide a safe buffer, with deeper zones restricted to the centre for aquatic plants and fish. Always tailor the depth to your pond's purpose, but remember that shallower areas are inherently safer.
While physical barriers are vital, educating children about the dangers of water is equally important. Teach them never to lean over or run near the pond and supervise them at all times when playing in the garden. Please encourage them to interact safely by helping with tasks like feeding fish or planting aquatic plants under adult guidance.
Your pond is likely to attract all sorts of wildlife, so make it safe for them too. Add ramps or sloped sides to help creatures like hedgehogs or frogs escape if they fall in. Floating plants and logs also give animals a place to rest. Additionally, keep an eye on predators like cats, ensuring your pond has plenty of cover from plants or features to protect fish and amphibians.
In colder months, ice can form on the pond, posing additional risks. Children or pets may mistakenly think itβs solid enough to walk on. Use a pond heater or floating ball to keep part of the surface ice-free, which not only improves safety but also helps wildlife by allowing oxygen exchange during winter.
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A pond or water feature adds charm and biodiversity to any garden. With thoughtful planning and regular maintenance, your water feature will become a serene retreat and a haven for local wildlife. Dive into the world of water gardening and transform your outdoor space today!
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