Sometimes gardeners can get a bit triggert happy when ti comes to pruning trees, especially in winter when ther true shape of the tree is laid bare. However, did you know that cherry, plum and apricot trees, (any in the prunus genus) shouldn't be pruned in winter due to them contracting a fungus called silver leaf? If this is news to you then this guide comes just in time to help you reduce the chances of your garden prunus or stoned fruit trees contracting this rather nasty disease!
Silver leaf disease is a serious fungal infection that affects many fruit-bearing and ornamental garden trees, causing leaf discolouration, dieback, and even tree death if left untreated. This guide will explain what silver leaf disease is, how to identify it, and how to prevent and manage it effectively.
Silver leaf disease (Chondrostereum purpureum) is caused by a fungal pathogen that infects trees through open wounds, particularly pruning cuts. The fungus spreads internally, producing toxins that cause leaves to develop a silvery sheen, hence the name. Over time, it disrupts the tree's ability to transport nutrients, leading to branch dieback and eventual death if not managed.
Usually silver leaf is the result of either winter tree damage, storm damage or poorly timed pruning which leads to open wounds which the fungus can easily take up residency in and then infect your fruit trees.
The progression of silver leaf disease can be rapid, particularly in vulnerable tree species. Once the fungus enters through a wound, it can spread internally throughout the tree.
Symptoms such as leaf discolouration may appear within a single growing season with a silvery blotchy edge on the leaves or silver marks.
If left unchecked, severe dieback and even death of major branches can occur within a couple of years of a fruit tree with silver leaf. In some cases, an entire tree may succumb in as little as two to three years, especially if environmental conditions favour fungal growth, such as cool, damp weather. Unlike other diseases that just zap the vigour of your trees, like rust or galls silver leaf if much more tenacious and deadly.
Silverleaf disease typically targets fruit trees and ornamentals trees from the Prunus genus, which is where plum, apricots, cherries and damsons come from. However it can effect a number of different fruit trees, in order of severity lets look at the tree species that silver leaf effects.
Most ornamentals in my experience get silver leaf if there is a cherry or plum that has contracted it nearby as the host that then spreads the fungus. Which is why you should summer prune the prunus genus or plums, apricots, damsons and cherries. Never prune them during the winter like you do for apples, pears and quince trees.
The Prunus family, including plums, cherries, apricots, and almonds, is particularly susceptible to silver leaf disease due to several biological and environmental factors. Prunus trees naturally have softer wood with a high moisture content, making them more vulnerable to fungal penetration. They are also frequently pruned in home gardens, creating more entry points for the fungus.
Additionally, Prunus species often have shallow root systems that can be stressed by environmental conditions such as drought or waterlogging, weakening the tree's natural defences against infection. Their early flowering habit also exposes them to springtime weather fluctuations, increasing the risk of pruning wounds becoming infected if not properly sealed.
The main issue is unsealed or healed pruning wounds or branch damage during the winter. Which is why keeping an eye on the health of your trees, and avoiding winter pruning can drastically reduce or even eliminate silver leaf from every making an appearance in your gardens Ninjas!
Silver leaf gets its name from the silver leaf edge it causes during the spring and summer of effected trees. There is also a fungus that can often be seen growing out of the trees wounds. To identify silver leaf disease, watch for the following symptoms:
Prevention is the best defence against silver leaf disease and, for the most part, is basic gardening and pruning hygiene. Clean tools, cuts, and sensible pruning will neatly eradicate all chances of silver leaf. Meanwhile, winter pruning, with rough cuts, in the dead of a wet December will actively encourage this fungus to take root.
To avoid Silver leaf, follow Garden Ninjas' essential tips:
Only prune susceptible trees during dry weather and in late summer when fungal spores are less active. Prune plum and cherry trees in July or August to minimize infection risk and never in the middle of wet, cold winters.
Always sterilize pruning tools with disinfectants like isopropyl alcohol or bleach before and after each use—for example, clean secateurs thoroughly when moving between trees. Use a bucket of clean soapy water or with 1 part bleach to every 20 parts water with you to dip them into.
Use a suitable wound sealant like a tree wound dressing on large pruning cuts (over 2.5 cm or 1 inch in diameter) to block fungal entry points. Consider sealing cuts on valuable or vulnerable trees, such as heritage fruit varieties that are over 10 years old or older.
Choose disease-resistant tree varieties where possible. For example, certain modern apple and plum cultivars have better resistance to fungal infections.
Keep trees well-watered during dry spells, mulch around the base to retain soil moisture, and apply balanced fertilizers in spring. Healthy, vigorous trees have stronger immune responses to infections.
Moist conditions promote fungal spore activity. If pruning cannot be avoided, do it during dry, sunny weather to reduce the chance of infection.
Regularly clear fallen leaves, twigs, and debris around trees to reduce fungal reservoirs. Compost only healthy plant material.
If your tree shows signs of silver leaf, acting quickly is the best way to manage the disease. Crossing your fingers and hoping for the best will not work with this fungus. Neither will killing your fruit tree with kindness by liquid feeds or mulches. The best way to treat it is to cut out the diseased branches to stem the flow of the fungus and then keep your eyes on your infected trees to make sure it doesn't reappear.
Cut back affected branches at least 15-30 cm (6-12 inches) below the diseased area into healthy wood. If in double,t remove the entire branch where the fungus or silver edged leaves are. It is best to be safe, not sorry, when it comes to silver leaf.
Never compost infected branches, as this can spread the fungus. Always either burn them in a waste incinerator or place them in your green waste bin where the council will heat treat this organic matter,
For severe cases, consider hiring a professional arborist for advanced tree surgery, especially with heritage fruit trees or old orchards, as the spread of silver leaf can happen quickly to other trees.
Another top tip is to choose silver leaf resistant plant types and tree species, cultivars and varieties. I must stress this doesn't mean they will never get silver leaf, but these species are more robust and less likely to get it, but still follow all of the silver-lead advice in this article by only pruning in the summer.
Silverleaf disease can kill trees within 2 to 3 years if left untreated, though the speed of its progression depends on several factors, including the tree species, age, and environmental conditions. After the fungus enters through a wound, it begins spreading through the tree's vascular system, producing toxins that impair water and nutrient transport. Speed is essential when treating silver leaves on fruit trees.
Environmental factors such as wet weather, cold temperatures, and frequent wounds from pruning can accelerate the disease's spread. Trees with poor overall health or those already stressed by drought or pests are especially vulnerable.
Protecting trees that were incorrectly pruned in winter from silver leaf disease requires urgent action to reduce fungal infection risks. Here arethe steps you can take:
For large cuts, consider a wound treatment or sealant. Apply a tree wound sealant or pruning paint to cuts larger than 9 cm (3 inches) to block fungal entry. Use products specifically recommended for fruit trees.
Remove any fallen leaves, branches, or pruned wood from around the tree to reduce fungal spore reservoirs. Dispose of infected material by burning or placing it in green waste bins.
Lastly, ensure good air circulation by removing nearby competing vegetation to reduce humidity around the tree and always follow my pruning guide for the open goblet shape on fruit trees which stops overcrowding and too much humidity, even in winter.
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Regularly inspect your trees, especially after pruning, to catch early signs of infection. Incorporate good garden hygiene practices like clearing fallen leaves and debris, and maintain a well-ventilated growing environment to discourage fungal spread.
By understanding silver leaf disease and following these prevention and treatment steps, you can protect your trees from this destructive fungus, ensuring a healthier and more productive garden.
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Happy Gardening!
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